7 things I’ve learnt about Finland living in Kathmandu

Finland is one of the world’s richest and most developed countries, famed for its Nordic welfare and functioning society. It is commonly accepted that when you are born in Finland, you have already won the lottery of life. Kathmandu is the capital of Nepal, one of the world’s poorest countries and a hotbed for natural disasters such as earthquakes, flashfloods and mudslides. Life somewhere so totally different as Nepal can teach many things about the Suomi lifestyle and culture.

1. Variety really is the spice of life

I am Finnish born and bred and spent my first 35 years living in Helsinki, but for the last 6 months I have been living and working in Nepal. The people make it a country of choice for travelers. It has almost 27 million inhabitants, 13 officially recognized languages, as well as tribes and ethnicities in such abundance that it could make an anthropologist faint with exhaustion. This makes a wonderful mesh of cultures, habits and rituals. English has a deep foothold here and communicating is as easy as in any international airport.

What this taught me about Finland:

Finland is an even more homogenous monoculture than I realized. While this has its benefits, living in Nepal has shown me how a country is infinitely more interesting and exciting when it embraces difference and celebrates multiculturalism.

2. Money definitely does not bring happiness

Something you notice immediately is the incredible generosity of the Nepalese people. Do not be alarmed when you are suddenly dragged into someone’s flat or makeshift dwelling for a cup of tea, some local momos or some home brewed Raksi rice liquor. Rejecting an offer is seen as rude. You will most likely be served the best they can offer, down to the shirt off their back. For a well to do westerner this can seem unjust and unnecessary, but rejecting their kindness will insult and sadden them more than material possessions would ever gratify them. Accept it and make a new friend for life.

What this taught me about Finland:

Like all western countries, Finland might be materially rich but it is spiritually poor. We might not be as uber-capitalist as the UK or US, yet we still buy into the idea that money brings happiness and acquiring wealth is the be all and end all.

3. Food is glorious. Germs are not.

Nepal is undoubtedly known for its cuisine and rightfully so. Not only is the Nepalese food extraordinarily tasty, but Kathmandu is also a hotbed for continental cooking with inspiration from around the world. You will have the option to dine on flavors from east to west, all for just 5 to 10 dollars. Be bold and hit a local street kitchen for an authentic experience rather than going for the high-end, international and overpriced tripadvisor choice. The only trouble is the sanitary conditions of these eateries leave a lot to be desired. Intrepid foodies may soon develop an intimate relationship with the toilet.

What this taught me about Finland:

While it is clear Finnish food could do with some spicing up, it is also clear that our famed love of rules takes the risk out of eating out. Sometimes being overly bureaucratic has its benefits.

4. We do party like it’s 1999

Kathmandu is not known for its nightlife, one reason being that the city shuts down at around nine in the evening. The bustling, energetic and chaotic marketplaces turn into abandoned streets engulfed by darkness and silence. Alcohol has only fairly recently become part of the every day scene in Nepal and being drunk was not looked upon favorably in the past.

The party animal inside you can still find happiness in the Thamel district. Though you need to keep some wits about when hitting the bars, sharing a glass is a great way to break the ice in Nepal. Sitting in a local café gobbling down local beer, you will soon have made friends from all walks of life who quickly want to exchange numbers and become Facebook friends.

What this taught me about Finland:

Finland’s nightlife is better than you think. Though we may not be world-renowned for partying, it is easy to get a beer or three at practically anytime. Even though we love a drink, it does not make us as sociable as it could and maybe should.

5. There are worse hangovers than a Koskenkorva hangover

After spending a night out with your newly made friends, do not be surprised if you wake up feeling like a 75-year-old alcoholic on the end of a 40-year binge. This is explained by two factors, the first being the purity of spirits. It is not uncommon for spirits to be laced, diluted or unsanitary. Raksi, the local rice wine, is usually produced in some back alley or basement in the outskirts of Kathmandu.

Secondly, Nepalese beer is recycled and the recycling method is questionable at best. Around 1/5 of the bottles will still have some detergent residue left in them, leaving your body to fend off more chemicals than after a 90s rave party. These two things combined are the recipe for a great hangover cocktail.

What this taught me about Finland:

There are even worse types of hangover than the ones you get from partying with a bottle of Koskenkorva.

6. Public transport is better when it’s less public

Kathmandu valley is a city planner’s nightmare with small epicenters of fun and excitement. These are strewn across the valley with no particular order or logic, so you must get familiar with the transportation system. The most common means of travel is the diesel gobbling, black smoke spewing, overcrowded bus. Routes and schedules are sporadic at best. All buses are equipped with a bus boy. His job is to shout the stops and destinations, manoeuvre the clients in a Tetris like fashion to fill every iota of possible space and occasionally change a flat tire or strap a goat to the roof.

Nepal is a traveler’s dream with activities ranging from extreme sports to meditation monasteries. Public transportation is your only way to reach these far away locations. The rides can be enjoyable social experiences with majestic scenery or roller coaster rides on narrow mountain roads with a 100 m death fall on one side. If you are prone to travel sickness or are faint of heart, pop a sedative and try to sleep.

What this taught me about Finland:

Public transport might be insanely expensive but it is fantastically comfortable and reliable. Whenever you are cursing a late train or a packed bus, be thankful you are not sharing it with a goat.

7. Always appreciate the chance to breathe easily

Upon exiting the Tribuvan airport, you will be hit with a wall of smog and the stench of petroleum. Kathmandu is extremely polluted and very dirty. One of the major problems visiting Kathmandu is hygiene. Garbage disposal does exist but trashcans do not, so people litter everywhere. The trash is then picked up by low caste individuals and dumped in a landfill or burned. The noxious combination of burning particles, engine exhaust, dust and industrial pollution makes spending a day in the city the equivalent of smoking 1 to 2 packs of cigarettes. Buy a face mask and use it.

The air is not the only thing that will contaminate you. Flooding open sewers and animal mess are so common that you will naturally start to look down at all times. During monsoon season you will see everything from shoes to last night’s dinner floating past you. Hand sanitation quickly becomes a daily routine.

What this taught me about Finland:

We are incredibly blessed to have such green and clean cities and environment. Until I experienced real pollution, I never really appreciated how wonderful it is to take a deep breath of pure air or have rubbish so magically recycled.